Best New Restaurant

Vashon Island's May Kitchen offers just 10 entrées, a puny figure by American-Thai standards. Yet with so many terrific dishes already on the menu, it's silly to grump about what's not available. The gai haw bai thoey is a gleefully tactile starter of three tender chicken bits, each bandaged in an untrimmed emerald-green pandan leaf, its forearm-long ends jutting skyward like especially perky onion tops. The marinated chicken bundles are seated in a slick of sesame oil, ginger, and syrupy pineapple chunks, so they're sweetly sticky both inside and out. Green papaya salad, tossed with a bracing amount of lime juice and a squirt of palm sugar, is a graduate thesis on the primal importance of crunch, its shredded starring fruit joined by crisp roasted peanuts and green beans which aren't shy about snapping.

Source: Seattle Weekly

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