Best Surf And Turf

Photograph by Lara Hata Surf and turf's expense-account-shattering allure hinges on a fairly straightforward conceit: Meat is expensive, and so is seafood. Uniting them on one plate is really expensive, and therefore luxurious and appealing. For those unable to shell out for filet mignon and Maine lobster at Harris' Steakhouse, a few San Francisco restaurants traffic in affordable, exciting unions of hoof and fin (or shell). Incanto's vitello tonnato with marrow bones and tuna heart 1550 Church (at Duncan), 641-4500 www.incanto.biz Celebrated Incanto chef Chris Cosentino puts an off-cut spin on vitello tonnato - which is traditionally chilled veal in a tuna-caper sauce - by dusting brawny bone-boats of gelatinous marrow with shreds of Sardinian cured tuna heart. The tuna's salty, sparkling bite perfectly complements the marrow's heart-slowing richness. Angkor Borei's prahok 3471 Mission (at Cortland), 550-8417 www.cambodiankitchen.com A stewed pork and coconut milk dip shot through with fermented anchovies, prahok- one of this Bernal Heights stalwart's best Cambodian dishes - is a smooth, funky foil for the accompanying spread of crunchy raw vegetables. Taqueria Guadalajara's steak and shrimp burrito 3146 24th St. (at Shotwell), 642-4892 Hemmed in by taquerias Farolito, Vallarta, and Tonayense, Guadalajara often gets lost in the shuffle. It deserves more recognition, particularly for its mixto meat burritos. We dig the chewy grilled shellfish paired with carne asada, each bite dosed with a few spoonfuls from the excellent salsa bar. Town Hall's fried oysters with spinach, bacon, and preserved lemon 342 Howard (at Fremont), 908-3900 www.townhallsf.com Served nestled in their shells and displayed on a bed of coarse salt, four plump, cornmeal-crusted fried oysters come garnished with green pools of spinach puree and salty slivers of thick-cut Hobbs bacon.

Source: SF Weekly

Add a Comment

Connect with facebook to post a comment. 

Login

Submit

Saving your comment...