Goody Goodie Cream & Sugar
1830 Harrison St., San Francisco, CA 94103
(808) 554-6464
Like crème brûlée, the Liège-style waffle makes a virtue out of the burning point of sugar. The street snack named for a Belgian city incorporates pearl-sized lumps of sugar in its batter, which melt and caramelize as the waffle cooks. At her Mission cafe, Remi Hayashi (who is also behind the Goody Goodie window at Folsom and Eighth streets) achieves the same effect by folding the coarse-grained raw sugar called turbinado into her brioche dough. The waffle comes out from between the blistering plates of a waffle iron with the husky scent of browned sugar, a surfaced flecked with blisters, and a crumb that's heavy with butter. The buckshot effect of semimolten sugar is there in the interior, though the pockets are smaller than in the Belgian original. But it has the same knack of packing the hollows of your back teeth with chewy bits, like shards of Chiclets.
Source:
SF Weekly
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