Best Italian (inexpensive)

Growing herbs and lettuce on its roof, Rosemary's has the edge on the competition when it comes to freshness. This greenery propels a concise and excellent menu that never hesitates to borrow key dishes from the local pioneers of Tuscan-style cooking, including an octopus "salami" decorated with minced giardiniera that reads almost as a headcheese; homemade coppa and testa that can't be beat; and a brilliantly simple take on spaghetti in what seems like plainish tomato sauce—until it explodes with flavor. Mozzarella there is made fresh every day—'nuff said. 18 Greenwich Avenue, 212-647-1818, rosemarysnyc.com (10011)

Source: The Village Voice

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