Best Catskillian

The mountainous area surrounding Liberty, New York, known as the Borscht Belt, was for decades a center of Jewish-American vernacular cooking at its many resort hotels. Now the excitement of those vast comfort food buffets has been channeled in a bistro setting at Kutsher's Tribeca, partly owned by a family that operated a hotel of the same name. The food is gussied-up Jewish, including fine house-cured pastrami, a revamped matzo ball soup with extra farmers' market veggies, and schmaltz (chicken fat) used in the recipes. Yes, there's chopped liver—made with both duck and chicken organs. And, if you're one of those people who never liked gefilte fish, Kutsher's version is more like French quenelles. 186 Franklin Street, 212-431-0606, kutsherstribeca.com (10013)

Source: The Village Voice

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